Wave Refraction in Coastal Area

The aim of this lecture is to present on Wave Refraction in Coastal Area. Wave Refraction in Coastal Area are close to coast, water gets more shallow. Waves are slowed down. If waves arrive at an angle, one part is slower than the rest: Causes waves to bend = wave refraction. A sequence of features is produced as headlands are degraded. Water waves are characterized by their height, their length, and their period. The wave height is the distance between the trough (lowest part) and crest (highest part) of the wave.